If you ever need to feel really small... (Part One)
And we would experience it in all its twisted glory.
A few months ago, it was decided that I would tag along with Adam Ewing on one of his yearly speed-seeking pilgrimages. Neither of us had much of an idea what to expect. We would meet up with the Spider Grips Ducati Team in Colorado Springs. And we'd get a better-than-average view of the race. Good enough. Spontaneous folks that we are, we loaded up our bikes with cameras, disposable clothes and a bunch of camping gear that we'd never use. Oh, and we brought along our buddy Ricky Henry (on his modified Virago cafe rat) for good measure.
For the sake of focus, I'll save most of the trip details for later. But I will say that we were compelled to ride to our destination and back — nearly 5,000 miles. It was a chance to step back from the minutia of a working garage and into a great expanse of country. To look up from spark plug gaps and timing marks and see something that went on and on. To fly into Denver and take a cab to Pikes would have left us utterly unprepared for this particular mountain.
Our first taste of the atmosphere came at 3:00 am on Friday as we wound up the dark landscape with Chris Nazarenus of MyLifeAtSpeed.com. She and her team were there capturing the event, often from the point of view of six-time Pikes Peak winner Greg Tracy. We divided and conquered, splitting off to cover several sections of the mountain for a practice session that would begin at dawn.
Adam overcame the altitude woozies to nail some great shots of the bikes as they made multiple runs on the middle section of the mountain. It's hard to describe the contrast of the beautiful landscape with the near violence of high-strung engines in full primal scream. I was perched on a snowbank where I could see the cars practicing on the lower sections and the bikes above.
I did as I was directed and drank lots of water and took very small steps as I snapped photos and searched for a cell signal. Why, I wondered, wasn't the signal better when I was so high up? Who knows, maybe the other 5,000 vertical feet of mountain above me was in the way.
It took no time for me to understand the magnitude of racing at Pikes Peak. During a practice run one rider passed another on the narrow strip of asphalt between the white edge line of the road and the dirt shoulder. Maybe it was Greg. He was on a Ducati, but he was simply going too fast to be identified. What I could tell, though, is that had he gone over the edge, the rider would not have stopped falling for a good long while. In poker terms, these guys and girls go all-in on every hand it seems.
Jump to Sunday at 2:30 am. We headed to the summit to begin a day of what felt more like survival than work or pleasure. The wind was constant and strong enough to knock any non-goat off its chosen path. I've never been seasick, but I think I can relate to it now. There was a noticeable lack of oxygen a mile or so below us. At 14,100 feet, it was nearly incapacitating. Especially after 17 hours.
We set up Adam's photo gear, including a big soft light that acted like a sail in the wind. Scratch that. It acted like a sack of Tasmanian Devils. Luckily we found a shielded nook behind a stone wall attached to a steel building at the summit. What building? The U.S. Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine — Altitude Research Facility. What else?
It's hard to describe this day without sounding negative. But in reality, I think we all realized that we were experiencing something remarkable and epic. Even now — only a week later — it's a fond memory. But at the time, though, we seemed to slip into a drunken delirious state where we survived by saying whatever popped into our heads. I definitely hallucinated once. It defies explanation how Adam managed to get 50-some amazing portraits of drivers as they finished their death-defying runs. But he did.
Delays ruled the day, but at long last, we were set to see what we came for — the motorcycles, specifically the vintage bikes and the big Ducatis. More specifically, our buddy Greg Tracy and his teammate Alexander Smith. And so we stumbled down to the hairpin that precedes the finish line to watch and wait.
The mood was light even as we heard ominous words like "Medivac" and "injuries" over various radios. The crowd at our perch thinned out. A hundred bikes or so passed by until eventually, Adam, Ricky and I were the only ones left watching. The safety car swept the course. And still no sign of 555.
Somewhere between the start and the finish, Greg Tracy and his blindingly quick Multistrada had simply disappeared.
Now we really felt sick.
(Photos: Adam Ewing)








